Prologue to A&A's Big Adventure

6 July
At long last the house is sold, contents packed, loose ends tied, and Anne & Andy have finally moved to New Zealand. I pick them up at the airport early on a cold foggy morning, but by coffee time we’re sat outside the cafe over the Domain in brilliant sunshine wearing T-shirts. So glad the weather’s good for them though it must be weird to come from an English Summer (albeit the worst in living memory) to a gloriously warm Auckland Winter. We meet Mike for a sushi lunch at Mt. Fuji and are warmly welcomed as ever by the owners. This evening we eat out at De Grand and enjoy the lovely Thai food while A&A struggle with jet lag. Andy nearly falls asleep in his dinner and Anne becomes hopelessly hysterical.

Just rounding the corner before Dacre Cottage, where estuary meets sea

7 July

Glorious weather again so decide to go north walking by the Okura Estuary around to Dacre Cottage. We set off crossing the river and entering deep bush climbing quite a bit. The bush is cool and dark on this bright sunny day. Over the ridge we descend down to sea level and come out onto a beach at the side of the estuary. It’s low tide so we continue walking around the beach over rather slippery rocks, and rounding a headland we come to a stretch of clean white sand with Dacre Cottage at the far end. It’s a lovely warm spot for lunch, and we can look across the water at Shakespeare Park, Tiritiri Matangi, and the hills of the Coromandel Peninsular in the far distance. We walk back the same way to avoid a steep climb through the bush.

That evening we have Peta and Jem round for dinner and Andy gets our fire going for the first time this Winter.

Lunch in the sun, with Dacre Cottage behind

Crossing a stream in the bush above Karekare beach

8 July
Our Sunday walk and we’re off to Karekare, the beach where The Piano was filmed. Another glorious day and, with lunch packed, we’re off in a north-westerly direction. We start off on Highway 16 and the road gets progressively smaller and more and more twisting till the last stretch which is gravel and descends steeply to the little car park near the coast. We’ve done this walk twice before but never in such great weather. Steep climbing through bush to get us to the top of the ridge with just the occasional glimpse of the beach below us, then it levels out a bit and becomes very muddy. We were expecting this: last time we were here a woman fell, broke her leg and lay awaiting the helicopter rescue. The mud slows us down a lot as we have to pick our way through on roots and harder ground trying to avoid the mud pools.

Emerging from the gloomy bush into the bright sunshine in the reeds of the lagoon area

I guess it takes about 2 hours in all till we descend again to sea level , coming out from the cool gloom of the bush into the bright sunshine of the swamp area. The lagoons seem to have grown, I guess because it’s Winter, but the way is pretty clear over board walks through the reeds and under patches of cabbage tree. We see black swans again over in the distance and eventually reach the black sand dunes which in the bright sun are positively glittering. It’s a strange and beautiful place and wonderful for A&A who, still suffering from jet lag, feel as if they’ve just arrived in Wonderland.

Mike, Anne & Andy on the black (almost purple) glittering sand of the dunes at Karekare

We climb the first and largest dune and then flop down in the sun to eat lunch. After a long rest we meander through the sand dunes following the path indicated by orange-topped poles which guide us over to the tunnel. This is a magical place: a large lagoon immediately beneath the cliffs with welcome swallows darting across its surface and tiny fantails flitting about in the surrounding trees. A couple of Paradise Shell Ducks are hooting at eachother. We rest for a while at a conveniently placed picnic table before making our way through the tunnel which had been blasted through a spur of rock for the transporting of logs, back when the bush was stripped of most of its kauri trees. We walk along what was once a railway track, parallel to the cliff base, no longer on sand but through a lovely green area between cliffs and dunes, alive with birds, finally coming out onto the black sand of Karekare beach where it’s an easy walk back to the car park.

Walking back along the beach towards the car park

 12 July

During the week A&A have focussed on sorting out finances, buying a car, and planning their campaign, but on Thursday evening we set off on our road trip up north. Mike has the Friday and Monday off work and the plan is to get to the northernmost point at Cape Reinga with various stops on the way. First we drive up to Whangarei where we’re staying at Pilgrim Planet again for the night.

13 July

In the morning we plan to walk somewhere along the Tutukaka coast which stretches north of Whangarei up to the Bay of Islands. After the necessary coffee stop we find a perfect horse shoe bay at Matapouri. The sand is white and the sea a beautiful turquoise, it’s really tempting, and not too cold really so we can't resist a paddle.

Down the board walk to Matapouri Beach

We walk the curve of the beach and then climb a path up a bank at the far end. It’s a steep slippery climb and will be far worse on the way down but at the top we’re in a wonderful grove of nikau palms, their stripy trunks reminding Mike of the pillars at the Mezquita in Cordoba. We’re hoping to find a way round the headland and back a different route but it doesn’t pan out that way and we have to go back down the slippery slope, hanging onto branches like monkeys as we drop down to the beach again.

At the far end of the beach we climb the headland

Mike in a jungle of Nikau Palms

Looking back down on the beach from the top of the headland

It’s a great coastline and we’ll definitely be back but now we’re heading to Kerikeri where A&A are meeting some friends. We get there just in time for tea and cake with them, and then work our way on State Highway 1 through Kaitaia to Ahipara, arriving at dusk.

The longest footbridge in the Southern Hemisphere. We stopped here in search of lunch, but found none

Me on the balcony of our Beachfront flat as seen from the beach

We’re staying for 2 nights at Ahipara Beachfront which is a 2-bedroomed flat above the owner’s accommodation. It’s a super place with amazing views right onto the beach. This is the southern end of 90 mile beach which stretches almost all the way up to Cape Reinga. Loads of people drive on this beach and it is in fact a designated highway. We go out for a quick walk on the beach (not too many cars around) before eating a fish & chip supper, which included battered scallops and a delicacy called ‘raw fish’, which is exactly that, marinated in lime juice and coconut milk, and tastes great.

14 July
Happy Birthday Andy and it’s presents at breakfast. We’ve decided to follow our landlord's recommendation to do the Cape trip on a coach. Apparently it’s the best way, and will also gives Mike a break from the driving. We’re the first to be picked up at 8.30 from the house, and it’s a beaten up old Chinese bus with a tiny little Maori guy as driver. He seems rather grumpy and doesn’t say much as he drives around collecting other tourists from Ahipara and Kaitaia. When we’re all aboard he pulls over just before going onto the beach and gives us his introduction which is a bit of a send-up and has us all in fits of laughter. From this point on he’s a different person, giving us a wonderful commentary on where we are and what we’re seeing, interspersed with Maori myths and funny little tales he makes up himself for fun. When there’s a lull he sings us beautiful Maori songs, and of course we all sing Happy Birthday to Andy.

Our coach arrives on 90 Mile Beach, before heading north (it's actually only about 50 miles long)

Driving up the river towards the giant sand dune. We were on first and grabbed the front seats

Driving up the beach is great fun but we’re glad Mike’s not doing it in the company car, especially when we reach the river. Instead of crossing over it, he does a 90 degree turn and drives straight up it. You have to do this quickly apparently otherwise you begin to sink in the sand. We’re soon driving through reeds and heading towards a giant sand dune, still in the river, but eventually he pulls the bus up onto a bank and we all get out.

Trudging up the dune only to sledge down again

He gets a load of plastic sleds out of the bus and everyone carries their sled up to the top of the dune to slide back down again. I say everyone but actually I didn’t do it: I reckon it was probably more fun watching other people try. Most little kids flew down but some went head over heels or backwards and older bigger people had the greatest difficulty getting the sleds to move at all. Back in the bus we’re heading closer to Cape Reinga over the last stretch which is very hilly farmland.

We stop for lunch at a beach, eat our sandwiches and have our tea and biscuits (all part of the service) then go for a stroll on the beach before the final stretch to the Cape where there’s a large car park and good views down to the spit at the end. We walk down to the light house but as we only have about half an hour here there's not really enough time to walk down the beach at the foot of the cliffs or explore any of the paths around us. It’s an important spiritual place for the Maori but unfortunately you don’t really get a feel for this side of things when you’re here with coach loads of other people.

Looking south from Cape Reinga

The most northerly tip of New Zealand from where Maori spirits fly after death. Its a calm day so the 2 seas meeting here,
Pacific and Tasman, are relatively still.

All together at the base of the light house, Cape Reinga

After this it’s back in the bus for the return journey back down to Ahipara, by road this time, stopping off for enormous ice creams on the way. It’s been a really smashing day out for us all and a good birthday treat for Andy. Our little Maori guide made it a very special day which we won’t forget in a hurry.  Thank goodness we didn’t attempt it in our car!

This evening Mike cooks goat osso bucco for dinner with ‘raw fish’ as a starter and apricot crumble for pud. A worthy birthday dinner after a great day out.

15 July
The weather’s taken a turn for the worse as we pack up to leave Ahipara, so we decide to go for a walk in the morning before the rain comes. We head off south to Shipwreck Bay. It’s very grey and not much visibility, could start raining at any time. We’re mostly on sand or scrambling over rocks. Above us are the famous gum-digging fields of the 18^th and early 19^thcenturies where tons of valuable kauri gum were dug from the swamps to be used as varnishes in the western world. Nowadays Shipwreck Bay is famous for being a surfer’s paradise though we don’t see any here today.

Buried ship in the middle of Shipwreck Bay

But guess what, there really is a genuine wreck right in the middle of it. Obviously been there a very long time and covered in rust and barnacles. We’re doing this walk at low tide and are able to walk right around the headland on great flat rocky outcrops. We see another baby seal struggling to get back into the water. Cars are also able to drive around here so we have to keep out of their way, mostly Maori families off for a day’s fishing, one group even on horseback. We settle against the cliff base for our picnic, then continue round to another secluded bay. There are a few ramshackle baches dotted around though no access except for the beach at low tide or boat I guess.



At low tide locals drive around the base of the cliffs to go fishing

A peaceful pearly grey day, and as we’re on our way back a gentle rain begins to fall. By the time we’re back at the car it’s proper rain which only gets worse as we do a bit of shopping and set off driving south for the Tree House through forest and hilly farmland all very wet. Mike’s attempt to get us all to Mitimiti Beach fails again as it turns out to be 3 hours away according to the SatNav. During the journey we get very good at identifying varieties of cows, seeing belted Galloways and Charolais as well as the usual Fresians and Jerseys. In fact there are far more cattle than sheep up here, maybe the sheep are mostly in South Island. At the Tree House Pauline makes us welcome as usual, Anne cooks a lovely mushroom risotto, and we settle into our bunks for the night, after a frantic game of 99, which I win incidentally (sorry Anne!).

16 July
A miserable wet Monday morning. We pack up quickly and shoot off to Kohukohu for a splendid breakfast sitting outside under cover with the heaters on. We catch the ferry over to Rawene, do the little Art Gallery and the famous pickle shop, grab a coffee, and then set off down the west coast highway.

We stop at Tane Mahuta, the largest living Kauri tree, which A&A haven’t yet seen. You can’t fail but be moved by its massive presence. Getting out the car we’d heard a loud fizzing noise and find we have a puncture which Mike and Andy fix in record time while me and Anne shelter from the rain. We continue the drive south on a winding road through the Waipoua Forest.

Lunch in Dargaville then next stop is the Kauri Museum. It’s fantastic and enormous containing everything to do with the Kauri tree industry, from early logging days and Kauri gum digging, to the largest carved gum collection and a life size 19th century 2 story boarding house. It also has massive machinery some of it still operating and Andy’s most impressed by their huge collection of chain saws.

We continue the journey home in the gathering dusk and pouring rain. This evening, it being our last together for a while, we go out to eat at our favourite Japanese restaurant, Tatsumi, exquisite food in a beautiful setting.

17 July
A&A’s car arrives and we say goodbye, as they head off south on their big adventure: new car, new country, new life. Very exciting!

Hamilton's Gap, 1 July

Having jumped over the stream we head north

We set off south again to stop at Hamilton’s Gap on the west coast of the Awhitu peninsular. Another beautiful day as we set off jumping over a stream and walking north from the car park at the Gap. It’s another area of compacted sand which has been sea and weather eroded into some amazing shapes. There are also large chunks of what looks like iron ore encased in the solid orange sand and many of the rocks have small mussels encrusted on them, which glitter in the bright sunlight.



Mussel beds glittering

We walk around a protruding headland and looking back realise that the tide is coming up so we need to turn round and walk the other way to avoid being cut off. Seeing another car skeleton reinforces the decision; we don’t really want to be forced to climb up into the dunes.

Black sand, with orange compacted sand shapes, looking south

So after lunch we turn around and just south of the Gap we see a beautiful baby seal just dragging himself out of the surf. The poor little thing is clearly confused and not sure which way to go. We keep our distance though I’d dearly love to go up and stroke him. Eventually he turns around and heads back to sea and we can see his Mum swimming about off shore waiting for him.



Such an adorable little seal I wanted to take him home with me

Beatiful little rock pools

The rocks down this way are even more bizarre in shape and colour and we spend some time exploring. After heading back to the car we pass the best public toilets I think I’ve ever seen, with the exception of Hundertwasser’s in Kawakawa. It’s beautifully designed to fit with its surroundings, looking like it’s made out of drift wood and nestling into clumps of flax against the sand dunes.

Strange chap peering through a hole in the rock

Strange woman clambering about on rocks

One beautifully designed dunny

After our walk we drive up to the northern tip of the peninsular to the lighthouse and look across the mouth of Manukau Harbour to Whatipu where we’ve walked many times now. We can also see the Auckland CBD in the far distance across the width of the harbour.

Mangawhai and Whangarei

How not to go hiking in NZ, Mangawhai Heads, 10 June
We wanted to get going early as it was another beautiful day , so we may have been in a bit of a hurry I suppose, but that’s really no excuse. Mike made sarnies, the picnic was packed, and we’d written the route down to key into the Satnav. In the car, ready to go and we’d left the route in the flat. Decided we could manage without, but it wasn’t till we arrived and started putting our boots on that we realised the rucksack containing lunch was nowhere to be seen. So we’d left that behind too, and quickly realised we didn’t have the camera either. Couldn’t believe how daft we’d been.

We had earlier stopped at the local i-site and learnt to our dismay that the walk we were planning to do was only possible in its entirety 3 hours either side of low tide. It’s a circular walk along cliff tops, then returning on the beach which is cut off at high tide. So we had already decided we would just do the cliff tops, as we’d come this far, and return the same way. In fact it’s necessary to walk across a couple of beaches at the very beginning of the walk before climbing to the cliff tops, and we were concerned seeing how high the tide was that we wouldn’t be able to make it at all.



Strange honey comb rocks on the way to start of the climb

From the cliff tops looking through the Nikau palms, back the way we'd come

As it turns out we were able to scramble over rocks and across the top of a beach to reach the start of the walk proper. It’s a new pathway created by DOC in 2008 and starts with a fairly steep climb up steps to the cliff tops. We immediately get a shower and a beautiful double rainbow and continue on our way. The path is literally cut into the hillside and there’s a very steep drop in some places right down to the beach. The sea is beautiful shades of green, turquoise and blue depending on its depth and so very clear you can see all the rocks and seaweed beneath the surface. We’re practising taking photos with Mike’s phone, just hoping we’re able to load them onto the PC back home. The walk is pretty level with great views across to various islands dotted around to the east. Pretty hot walking with only a minimum of shade provided by the odd pohutukawa and nikau palm, would be tough going on a hot Summer’s day. After about an hour we reach the beginning of the descent. Looks like a long way down flights of steps, but not much point in going down as the tide’s way up high and there’s no chance of getting round the base, so all we can do is return the way we’ve come.

17-18 June

We plan to travel up north again and stop over in Whangarei, the largest town on this north-eastern side. As this means passing Mangawhai Heads again we decide to complete the walk we only half did last w/e, as both tides and weather are perfect for it today. This time we make sure we take everything we need including water and lunch. Weather fabulous though the sea’s a bit rougher as there’s a bit more wind about. We’ve got the binoculars and can see fishermen out in their boats and large flocks of sea birds way out to sea.

Looking straight down from the path, with beautiful clear water below

This time we head on down the steps at the far end. It’s quite a steep descent but levels out towards the foot of the cliffs as the path leads us on board walks through nikau palms. We eventually come out onto the rocky beach and almost immediately spot a large group of dolphins close to shore. We think at first they’re whales because they’re pretty large and they aren’t frolicking about like the dolphins we’d seen in Queen Charlotte Sound, but just breaking the surface with their fins. Must be about 20 of them and, blow me, if, just when we think they’ve all gone, they don’t turn around and come back past us again. After this wonderful show we set off through a huge rock arch and back along the cliff base, making our way over rocks and pools.



Approaching the arch

We pick our way over the rocks

Takes a lot longer than the cliff top walk that’s for sure, as we’re picking our way over boulders and wadingthrough deep pebbles. It’s quite hard work and tough on the ankles. Eventually it gets easier as we pass a few sandy coves and soon find a nice sheltered spot for lunch. Continue our way past sandy bays and little rocky coves until we reach the beginning of the walk.

Nearly back at the start, looking back the way we'd come

From here we drive onto Whangarei stopping at the i-site on the way. We take a look at the town basin area beside the Hatea River which has restaurants, bars and the famous clock museum which we visit for half an hour. We’re staying at the Pilgrim Planet, which is run by a kiwi/Canadian couple who did a lot of work on the house themselves. It has 5 bedrooms and a large kitchen and sitting area for guest use, a good set-up. Whangarei is home to ‘A Deco’, Northland’s best restaurant apparently, which is a beautiful Art Deco building but turns out to be fully booked. Probably just as well: apparently portions are tiny and it’s very expensive. We end up having a good meal in the town basin. Very cold night.

There’s a heavy frost outside in the morning and we set off to take a walk around the A. H. Reed Kauri Park. It’s a fabulous morning with mist rising off the fields and we walk through bush to the canopy walkway. Very dark here but there's a lovely green mossy stoned river winding its way through the reserve.



Very cool, dank and green, the river below the canopy walkway

We then follow the signs for the waterfall walk which takes us through frosty fields beside a beautiful deep green river and over a swing bridge up to the impressive Falls at Titipunga, with a 26m drop to a deep pool below. Stop for an early lunch back in Whangarei, then drive on around the harbour coastline towards Whangarei Heads where we plan to climb Mount Manaia.

Walking beside the river towards the Falls

Whangarei Falls at Titipunga on the Hatea River

There are 5 distinct stone fingers on the rocky summit of the mountain and a Maori legend explains the story behind them. It’s a steep climb up through native bush, about 500m above sea level and mostly climbing good DOC-built steps. Although it’s a sunny day we’re steadily climbing up through deep shade, with lots of nikau palms, supple jack, and ancient puriri trees. About half way up I spot a parrot on the branch of a tree. It’s dark greeny-brown, quite large, and very busy ripping up bark with its hooked beak, presumably looking for insects. We’ve seen kakas before, flying overhead in Zealandia, shame it’s too dark to see clearly. We’re hoping he’ll come close enough for a decent picture but he’s too intent on finding food, and ignores us completely.

Mike on the look-out with Whangarei Harbour behind

A bit further on we follow a side path leading to a terrific look-out where we rest. Amazing views across the harbour, and over to the rocky outcrops on Bream Head, the southern tip of this peninsular. We continue upwards and soon come to a wooden ladder that takes us to a flat rock and that’s as far up as it’s possible to go.

This is as high as we get

The rock fingers of the summit are hidden from view unfortunately, but we see a crazy couple making their way up towards them. No ropes or any special equipment; I can hardly bare to watch. From here we can see over to the southern end of the Tutukaka Coast which leads up to the Bay of Islands. We spend quite a while resting in the sunshine and chatting to another English couple who’ve made it up here, then we head back down, which, believe me, is a lot quicker than climbing up. Drive straight back home in less than 3 hours.

Crazy kiwis trying to get to the top. She's even carrying a handbag up there

The Queen's Birthday w/e

This is taken fairly seriously over here with a Bank Holiday every year, not just for the Jubilee. We decide to mark the occasion with a trip to Tauranga and a stop-over on the Friday evening in Paeroa. Mike finishes work early but we get stuck in all the traffic making its way out of Auckland, arriving in Paeroa in the dark after 7. We’re in a ‘luxury homestay' and are welcomed by Betty and Mark to our self-contained unit. The bathroom is luxury indeed with a sauna, a large spa bath and a shower. We’re soon on our way out to eat at the recommended Thai restaurant .

Paeroa is famous for two things: antique shops and L&P (‘world famous in New Zealand’). It’s quite a pleasant fizzy drink and the town has not one but two giant replicas of it. Unfortunately for us it’s not famous for its restaurants; they all look empty and sad and the food in the Thai place is only average and I really shouldn’t have looked at the state of the floor.

Looking along the Ohinemuri River towards the first suspension bridge

Just coming out of the 1km long tunnel

It’s a beautiful morning and we’re off early to walk the Karangahake Gorge, with the early morning mist burning off. The antique shops of Paeroa will have to wait. We plan to do the longer ‘historic’ walkway beginning with a 1k walk through an old railway tunnel. It’s lit, so no need for the torches just yet. We cross the Ohinemuri  river and begin a long walk alongside it, so dead level. There are loads of people cycling in the opposite direction, must be a bike hire place at the far end. It’s certainly a beautiful rocky river gorge but unfortunately there’s a main road on the far side of it and we can’t escape the traffic noise so decide to stop at the Owharoa Falls, turn back, and investigate the mining tunnels. The falls are pretty spectacular and we meet a man there who recommends the Windows Walk.

The Owharoa Falls where we decide to turn back and investigate the old mining ruins

Mining began on the Karangahake Mountain back in 1875, and it was pretty intensive for decades, with 3 batteries built in the area to crush rock from which gold and silver ore was extracted. So there are loads of old industrial remains to be seen, and as we leave the gorge and turn up the Waitawheta River we pass 2 battery ruins, huge bits of rusty iron, and a number of old railway tracks. The Windows Walk is so called because it is a tunnel which runs parallel to the rock face through which windows have been cut to allow daylight through. From this tunnel others go off at right angles into the heart of the mountain and excavated waste rock was thrown out through these windows. It’s pitch black away from the windows though, so the torches are very useful and I, for one, wouldn’t be doing this without them. Mike goes off into one of the side tunnels to explore while I remain standing beside a windows, through which I can see the river down below and the suspension bridges used to cross to other tunnels. We later pass a couple struggling along blindly: their 2 kids having run off ahead with the torches leaving them in complete darkness!

Looking out from one of the 'windows' down towards another suspension bridge; we return on the far side

Crossing a rather wobbly bridge

Back out in the sunshine, we cross a very wobbly suspension bridge and return on a track the other side of the Waitawheta River. We pass a small cave and the man coming out with his daughter is talking about cave wetas. Naturally we ask him to show us too, and there they are: about 20 of them just above our heads in a cluster. Their bodies are much smaller than the wetas we’ve seen in the back yard but their legs and antennae are much longer and spidery. I really don’t want one landing on my head so Mike stays inside to take photos while I get back out into the sunshine.

Cave Wetas, probably about life size

It makes for a really interesting and varied walk and made even more so when we later learn that our landlord was contracted by DOC to create the extension to the Windows Walk tunnel taking it down to the suspension bridge to make it a circular walk.

Last section of the walk taking us back to the car

We have lunch in the nearby Ohinemuri Winery which is good but takes forever to arrive so we’re setting off for Tauranga later than we imagined and have to put off the Paeroa antique shops again.

We arrive just as it’s getting dark and go off to check out the restaurants (rather disappointing ) ending up in a Japanese place drinking saki. We’ve planned to meet up with Peta and Jeremy probably for dinner tomorrow as they’re staying in the same hotel for the w/e coincidentally.

The next morning we go to Mount Maunganui for breakfast with Peta and Jem and climb the volcano. Parking is a bit of an issue because a running event had been scheduled for that morning and the place is crammed with runners and supporters and some of the roads are closed, but eventually we’re all parked and breakfasted and ready for the ascent. A pleasant climb circling round the mount with great views improving as we got to the top. It really helps to understand the geography of a place viewing it from a height like this and we see how the long low island of Matakana clearly shelters the bay here creating the lovely long safe beaches.

Mike, Peta, and Jem virtually at the top of Mount Maunganui

From the top. We later walked over to the tip of the little island as the tide was going out

At the top of the Mount we’re virtually mobbed by a flock of fantails fluttering around like butterflies, such pretty vivacious little birds. By the time we’re back down again the awards are being presented and the races are over. We separate, with Mike and I walking over the beach to an island just off the coast as its low tide, and then having lunch outside one of the cafes on the coastal strip on this lovely sunny afternoon. After lunch we return to the hotel and wander into Tauranga, going to the Art Gallery where there’s a good exhibition of photos by Brian Brake (one of NZ’s most famous photographers).

We go to P&J’s room for a drink before dinner. Not too much choice here in Tauranga, in fact Mt Maunganui seems better in that respect, and we end up in a large Turkish place, service and food not great, but good to have company.

The poppet head frame in the morning mists at Waihi

Looking down into the open pit of Martha's Mine

We’re off quite early on another beautiful sunny morning but as we make our way north we hit dense fog. Stopping at Waihi we breakfast then visit the i-site where a helpful Scots woman tells us what’s worth a look. Waihi has existed as a mining town since gold was discovered in 1878. Martha mine is now an enormous open pit and the walk around its rim takes us about an hour. Initially the massive hole was filled with fog but this gradually clears until we can just about see the bottom of it if we crane over from the viewing platform. These days massive trucks transport rock to be processed a few kms away. We learn that from 1 ton of rock, 3 gms of gold is extracted. Hardly seems worth all that effort!

We move on back to Paeroa to look at the antique shops at long last, and they really are rather good. The best we’ve seen yet in NZ and the prices aren’t too bad either. Buy a couple of bits, go for lunch in the cafe by the giant L&P bottle, and then make our way back home through the bank holiday traffic.